Kizashi Club

As with all Do-It-Yourself (DIY) projects, Kizashi Club, Kizashi Depot, Metatrox, and all submitting members are not held responsible for any mishap to your vehicle while attempting any of these projects. All DIY’s are performed at your own risk.

DIY - Exterior

How to BlackOut your bumper using Paint

- View Forum Thread Here
Author: KizzyOHIO
Date: July 13, 2010

Time and Materials:
This project took about 2 hours for prep and labor, and then 24-48 hours for drying time.

1) Suzuki Kizashi
2) Newspaper
3) Painters Tape
4) Automotive Paint (I used Sherwin Williams SEM 39143 Trim Black)
5) Sand Paper (I used 2000 grit)
6) Window Cleaner (Ammonia Based)
7) Car washing materials

Step 1: Buy a Suzuki Kizashi (any color other then black will work):

Step 2: Wash car throughly (preferable day before to allow time to completely dry, the tape will not stick properly to a dirty or wet surface):

Step 3: Place painters tape on vehicle to create the line desired (tucking the tape under the grille is helpful for full coverage):

Make sure the tape is on completely to prevent the paint from bleeding. I used a credit card edge to push the tape down.

Step 4: Tape newspaper to exisitng tape and vehicle to account for overspray:

You now have an official Nascar with all those adds! You can never have too much coverage go overboard here.

Step 5: Sand bumper lightly to remove any imperfections and to rough up the existing paint:

Step 6: Clean surface with window cleaner to remove any dust and remaining wax/cleaner:

Step 7: Add paint (light passes to prevent dripping and for a more even coat):




It took roughly 9-10 passes to cover the bumper completely and have a consistent color over the entire surface.

Step 8: Move car into sun to allow to dry and to inspect for quality:

I made 2 of the passes with the paint once I had the car in the sun.

Step 9: Remove paper and tape, inspect work:

I felt the paint was dry enough after about 30 minutes to remove the tape. (Times may vary!)

Step 10: Allow plenty of drying time
The paint I used felt dry after 8 hours but I allowed 48 hours before driving.

Step 11: Enjoy your custom look front end!

Post project thoughts:
Now that I have completed the first pass of the front end modification I wish I would have also painted the inner lip surrounding the bottom trim piece. (See picture below) While this isn't required, and the finished product looks good without it, I feel it would really complete the look. I am also considering adding a pin-stripe around the entire grille. While I might use red, someone could use black to really sharpen up the edge (in the event the tape bled while painting.)


Well there you have it, my first DIY. Hope this was helpful. If anyone has any questions or would like specific pictures just let me know. Now what to do next...

How to BlackOut your bumper using Vinyl

- View Forum Thread Here
Author: Metatrox
Date: September 04, 2010

You will need to purchase the Vinyl Bumper BlackOut Kit from Metatrox, either on this site or on Ebay


The kit is available in both glossy and matte black. They are $30 + shipping. They are made of 8 year premium cast vinyl and are only 2mil thick so you don't see much of a seem.

They are for sale on eBay.
Matte : Item number: 180562102667
Glossy : Item number: 180570021056
Also available in our store here.

Here is also a video installation guide.


Pm me or email me [email protected] if you have additional questions.








Also just incase some of you need any persuasion, here is a video of the removal just incase you dont like it(yeah right!) later down the road.

DIY - Interior

DIY - Performance

DIY - Maintenance

Download the Owners Manual

Click HERE to view the Owners Manual PDF.
Right Click and Save As/Link, to download the PDF.

Oil Change Tips

- View Forum Thread Here
Author: TObject
Date: June 29, 2010

I changed the oil on my Kizashi for the second time today and decided to post what I learned to make the job easier for others.

- Six 10 mm bolts on the bottom to remove the plastic tray from under the oil pan.

- 14 mm drain plug, when you remove it oil shots out pretty far. It is easier to catch it if you have a high bucket close to the drain hole. As you unscrew the plug, hold it in with your finger until all the threads are released, then remove your hand with the plug out of the way and let the old oil flow.

- The oil filter is in the front of the engine, above the AC compressor. The location of the oil filter is inconvenient, plan ahead on how you will remove the old filter. You may prefer to take off the exhaust manifold heat shield first; it is held by three 10 mm bolts (shorter than the ones that hold the bottom plastic tray).

- I went to the local Suzuki dealer, and they sold me a filter made in China out of unknown materials. I went to Walmart, and got a synthetic filter made in Canada. The FRAM brand has four or so different levels of filters, from very cheap to more expensive, the part number is 4386 with two letters in front of it. You can also try Mobil M1-103 or WIX 51396 and other cross-reference numbers. My concern was that FRAM filters have the thread set about one-tenth of an inch shallower than the Suzuki filter; but it worked just fine, Kizashi engine has plenty of thread on the filter mount to accommodate the aftermarket filters.

- Lubricate the gasket on the new filter with fresh motor oil, and pour some of the fresh oil into the new filter before you put it on. You can fill the filter about half way with oil, and let it stand for a bit to let the oil absorb in the material, so that it doesn't run when you are ready to screw the filter in.

- To unscrew the old filter you will need a special wrench. I used Lisle filter wrench part number 63600, and I like how it works.

- Here is what you can do so that not to make a mess when you unscrew the old oil filter. Tear off and neatly fold several sheets of paper towels. Place them above the AC compressor and under the old oil filter before you take it off. The sheets will catch oil that spills while you take the old oil filter off.

- It is probably easier to take the old oil filter off from the top. Loosen it with the wrench first, then unscrew it by hand, turn the filter can down as soon as it is off, and lift it up.

- Make sure the rubber gasket came off with the old filter, before you put the new filter on.

DIY - Electrical & Lighting

Replacing Headlights with HID's

- View Forum Thread here.
Author: ThunderSky
Date: June 27, 2010

OK, here is the procedure as I documented it. I actually took many many more photos but then determined that some of the procedures weren't needed so I'll just post the relevant points. I missed a few pictures in some sections but I'll describe them as best I can.

Start with removing all the screws holding the bumper on underneath the front of the car, including the small plastic wind deflectors (I didn't bother to take pictures there, it's pretty easy to figure out this part).

Now with the hood open, remove the plastic covers behind the headlight by popping the pushpins up and taking them out. Then just flex the cover a bit to remove it. This will give you access to the screws and pushpins that hold the headlight in at the top. (you'll remove them later)


Now, find the slot in the front edge of the Liner of the wheelwell and remove the screw that goes up into the fender.
Just turn the wheels a bit to allow extra access room if needed.


With this screw out you only need to add a good tug outwards to release that edge of the bumper.


Next remove the 3 screws holding the front of the bumper on the top, and the rubber bumpers (these just pull off)


Pull up on the top of the fender and slide it back, it should drop down enough to complete the rest of the job.
IMPORTANT, put something under the bumper to protect it. I released the wire harnesses for the Fogs, allowing the bumper the drop right to the ground where I had a couple of pads waiting.


Now you should have access the all the screws holding the Headlight assy to the car (don't forget to unplug the headlight at the rear)






This is where I missed a few good picture opps, but basically we flipped the headlight over an found a good, slightly recessed flat spot on the bottom, directly under the low beam. So we took a ballast and used it to mark the location for the screws (make sure the wires are towards the rear opening). We drilled the 3 holes, I think using a 1/8 drill bit (just slightly larger than the screws) We then placed the ballast inside the headlight assy and played around until it lined up to get a screw started from the outside. Finished putting in the screws, stuffed the rest of the wires inside after making the connection to the original plug (wrapped that well with black electrical tape), and that was it.


We now had HID headlight assemblies that still looked completely stock.

Now just reverse the process for re-installing the bumper and you are all set.

Add Audi style LED's for your Daytime Running Lights

- Visit the forum post.
Author: KCKizashi
Date: September 21, 2010

I decided I wanted to add daytime running LEDs instead of the hideous dimmed bright bulbs. iJDMToy.com offers multiple LED strips which is where I got mine from.


Here's the LED Strips. Because the gold film was showing through the clear vinyl, I taped off the LED section and then painted the base a brushed nickel color. Krylon for plastics is what I used.


Next came the tough decision. In order to get the headlight assembly to come apart, I had to heat the rubber butyl adhesive holding it all together. so in the oven it went. 300 degrees for about 3 minutes. Be sure not to let any of the headlight touch the oven walls.


Once out of the oven work quickly and pry apart the clear lens from the housing. if the black seal seems to tear instead of pull apart, put the headlight back in the oven to heat it up some more. With the lens off the housing, turn it over and look for 3 torx screws, size 10.


To run the wiring through the frame, I drilled a small hole in the corner. Once it's turned over you won't see the hole and the wires will be hidden up under the lip of the frame.


I used 3M double sided Automobile adhesive to attach the strip to the silver reflector and installed the reflector back to the clear lens with the 3 Torx screws. Drill a small hole on the backside of the headlight housing to route the wires through, then seal it with silicone. Put everything back together and place it back in the oven long enough to heat up the sealant then press together tightly.


Repeat with the second headlight and put the front end of the car back together. Now to get power to these.

In the fuse box in the Engine, find relay #33. its for the Rear Defogger. Remove the relay and the slot closest to the firewall is powered when the key is on or engine is running. Strip the wire, lay it in the slot then press the relay back down firmly. Ground the other wire to a generic ground somewhere in the engine compartment.


Job well done! Audi who?? Mercedes what??



To turn off the factory daytime running lights, the plug is in the cabin, close to the brake pedal along the firewall as shown in the Service Manual, item #28.

Just unplug it; however this also disables the Brights as well. I'm currently working on wiring in a relay that bypasses the daytime dimming function but restores the factory brights. That's a project for another day. :lol: